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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end names. However, tucked high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” states a family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary honour.